DIY PVC Hurdle

DIY Adjustable PVC Hurdle

DIY Adjustable PVC Hurdle

Today we’re going to build an adjustable PVC hurdle. If you ever do plyometrics as part of your training routine, or if you’ve had the unpleasant experience of missing the landing on a box jump, a hurdle can be an excellent addition to your training gear.


  • 4 – ¾” PVC schedule 40 pipe @ 48”
  • 2 – ¾” PVC elbows
  • 3 – ¼” bolts, 3” long
  • 1 – ¼” bolt, 4” long
  • 4 – ¼” flat washers
  • 4 – ¼” nuts
  • 1 – ¼” clevis pin, 3” long
  • 1 – cotter pin


  • Drill
  • Drill guide, if available
  • Wrench
  • Saw
Materials and Tools

Materials and Tools

Begin by cutting a 6” long piece from one of the long pieces of PVC pipe. Cut the remaining (42”) piece in half. These pieces will be a furring strip and the legs, respectively.

Measure Twice, Cut Once

Measure Twice, Cut Once

Next, locate and mark the center, lengthwise, of a full piece of pipe. Using the ¼” drill bit, drill straight through the pipe at the center mark. The drill guide came in very handy for ensuring the hole was drilled as intended. Repeat this on a second piece. These are the cross-members of the hurdle.

Drilling with the Drill Guide

Drilling with the Drill Guide

Before you bolt them together, mark a distance ¾” from the end of each piece. Drill a hole at this mark, making sure that it is co-planar with the center hole in each piece. I used a bolt and a speed square to accomplish this. On one of those pieces, drill two more holes – one at 2”, the other at 5”. Again, make sure the holes are all co-planar.

Using a Speed Square and a Bolt to keep Holes Coplanar

Using a Speed Square and a Bolt to keep Holes Coplanar

Now you need to drill the same sequence of holes in the 6” piece of PVC pipe. Mark the locations ¾”, 2” and 5”. Drill all three holes, ensuring they are co-planar. Bolt the 6” piece of pipe to the long piece of pipe with the matching holes. Use 3” bolts to attach the two pieces at the 2” and 5” mark. The third hole will be used later.

Marking the Furring Strip

Marking the Furring Strip

Next, bolt the two long piece of pipe together at the center hole. When doing so, make sure the furring strip aligns with the second pipe. This will ensure that the upper piece of the hurdle runs straight across, rather than at an angle. On the ends of the pipes that do not have holes, install the 90-degree elbows. Then, install the two pieces of pipe that form the feet.

Cross Members with Center Bolt

Cross Members with Center Bolt

With the remaining long piece of pipe, mark and drill a hole at ¾” from one end. Using the 4” bolt, attach this piece to the end of the cross-member with the furring strip. The final step is to mark and drill the holes that correspond to the various heights you wish to achieve. The standard hurdle heights in track and field are 27”, 30”, 33”, 36”, 39” and 42”. Manipulate the hurdle to the corresponding height and mark the intersection of the cross-member and the top bar. Repeat for the remainder of the heights you want to have.

Marking for Various Heights

Marking for Various Heights

Once marked, remove the top bar and drill the holes for each position. Again, make sure these holes are coplanar with the very first one. Once all the holes are drilled, re-attach the top bar with the 4” bolt. Use the clevis pin and cotter pin to select the desired height.

Fully Assembled Adjustable Hurdles

Fully Assembled Adjustable Hurdle

Lift heavy, run fast and JUMP HIGH!

DIY PVC Hurdle

DIY PVC Hurdle

Should you prefer a simpler design, I mocked up a non-adjustable version. Give either a try and let me know how it works in the comments or over on facebook!

Simple PVC Hurdle

Simple PVC Hurdle



It’s the Thanksgiving holiday here in the USA, a time when we should all take a moment to reflect on all that we have to be thankful for. There are many things for which I’m thankful, but I’ll stay on point for this forum. I’m thankful for the opportunity to share my experience and knowledge with like-minded Garage Gym Guys and Girls!

Ryan's Garage Gym

Ryan’s Garage Gym

I sincerely appreciate all of the interactions I’ve been able to have through this blog, and I hope that you all get as much out of it as I do. Indulge me for a moment, as I share one of these recent interactions.

Ryan is a CrossFitter and Olympic Weightlifter who has been building a gym in his garage. Here are his words, and a couple pictures of his gym.

“I just recently moved and sold my CrossFit Business. I wanted a place to work out but wasn’t sure if I would fit into another CrossFit box. Therefore, I reached out to Eric the Garage Gym Guy. I came across his blog several months ago and I was impressed with his work. My plan was to build a Garage Box and I didn’t quite know what pieces of equipment I wanted. When I emailed Eric, he messaged me back very quickly and took the time to help me with no strings attached. He didn’t hesitate to give me his advice and I am so glad he did. I don’t recommend anyone setting up their Garage box on their own without Eric’s insight. Eric is the source I am going to continue to use in regards to setting up my Garage Gym needs in the future.”

So, to Ryan and all you other Garage Gym-ers out there, THANK YOU, and have a safe and happy Thanksgiving!

Bruce Lee Graphic on Ryan's Lifting Platform

Bruce Lee Graphic on Ryan’s Lifting Platform

Powerlifting Meet Write-Up

I know it’s way over-due, but better late than never! This past March I lifted in the UPA Michigan Powerlifting Championships hosted by Detroit Barbell.

First things first, the meet was very well run. Detroit Barbell’s staff was top-notch and did a great job with everything from loading bars to spotting the lifts to running the scoreboard. I look forward to my next Detroit Barbell hosted meet!

OK, now for the details…

Making Weight

I did a water cut to lift in the 181 lbs class. I’m normally up between 185 and 190, so it was a fairly easy cut. I lifted in the CrossFit division since I follow CrossFit Football as my primary mode of training.


I opened at 365 lbs, which was roughly my 3RM in the weeks leading up to the meet. I used this method to choose my openers for all three lifts, and it seems to have been a good strategy. That first squat was an easy one, so I felt good moving up to 405 for the second attempt. This one felt decent, and came up with another three white lights. I called for 415 on my third attempt and got stuck in the hole. As mentioned earlier, the spotters did a fantastic job! I’d hit 411 once in the gym a few weeks prior, so hitting 405 and missing 415 seemed a fair assessment.

Bench Press

I opened at 235, and like the squat, put an easy first attempt on the board. I had a minor hiccup on my second attempt due to benching with a supine grip and having a spotter who wasn’t used to seeing it. No harm, no foul, and 255 went up for three white lights. I called for a PR of 270 for my third attempt. Driving off the chest, my back cramped hard, which I think helped my arch and gave me just enough help to drive through to lockout.


I train with the Rogue barbell, so using a legit deadlift bar was a bit of a treat, and it showed in my score! I once again called for the easy opener of 405, which came off the floor surprisingly easy. A jump to 435 on the second attempt had similar results, so I called for another PR of 455 for my third attempt. It felt heavy, but good as I locked it out.


I had calculated a projected total around 1,130 prior to the meet, albeit with a little different mix through the lifts. As it turned out, none of the lifts was exactly as I had projected it, but the total was spot-on.


I was primarily looking for an honest, meet-verified assessment of my strength progress. Being able to lift with such a knowledgeable and helpful staff also made for a nice opportunity to determine any lagging areas and possible means to fix them. I accomplished both things, and have already set out to prepare for what comes next.

If you’ve ever contemplated lifting at a meet, just do it! Also, if you happen to be in the Midwest, try to find a meet hosted by Detroit Barbell!

If you have done a meet, or have one coming up soon, tell us about it in the comments or on the Facebook page!

Power Rack Safety Straps

Warning! What I am going to describe below is only what I have done myself. It is not a recommendation that you should do the same. In fact, most of the pieces I use below specifically include warnings that the pieces should not be used to hold weight overhead, be used for athletics, or used to support body weight. Anything you choose to copy from the following is done at your own risk.

Lifting safely by yourself has been a popular topic lately. This was brought to my attention quite directly under the weight of a 400 lbs squat attempt a couple weeks ago. It was further reinforced by a 70’s Big post and a video that has been making its way through social media recently:

While I typically pride myself on taking appropriate safety measures, the squat attempt a couple weeks ago revealed a flaw in my setup. When I missed the attempt, the bar dropped on my safety straps and bent open the quick links, catastrophically. While I frequently record my lifting attempts, unfortunately I did not record this one, and so I only have a picture of the aftermath. The good news is that the pin & pipe safety system survived with hardly a scratch.

broken saety straps

Failed Safety Straps due to…

broken link

Broken Quick Links

The pin & pipe safety system is likely the strongest, but when the barbell comes into contact with it, a couple things happen. First, the bar comes to an abrupt stop and/or bounces, particularly if one side hits before the other. This can be quite jarring. Second, when that impact occurs, if it is of sufficient force, it will mar the knurling on the barbell. I paid a decent price for my bar, and I’d like to keep it in the best shape I can.

I prefer straps because they take up slack more smoothly on a squat that goes a little deeper than planned, and because they do not mar the knurling on the barbell. I still believe my original strap system is safe and effective, with the exception of using master links in place of the quick links. The quick links were used in the mistaken belief that they were rated for enough loading force, and because they would allow for a fast transition from the bench position (lower) to the squat position (higher). This design is incredibly cost-effective, especially when compared to the commercially-available alternatives that start around $165.

original safety strap

The Original Safety Strap

The original strap system could have been corrected by simply replacing the quick links with threaded master links, but it still had one fundamental flaw for my garage gym: it was the wrong color. So, I set out to make a reasonably-priced strap system that would out-perform the first system, preferably in orange.

Here’s what I came up with. I started with four axle straps ($4 each, rated at 3,300 lbs). I used 3/8” clevises ($4 each, rated at 2,000 lbs) to connect to a master link ($2.50 each, rated at 1,980 lbs). The master link connects to one loop of a tree saver strap ($24 each or orange, as low as $14.50 each for yellow, rated at 20,000 lbs). The other end of the strap connects to 5/16” Grade 30 chain ($15 for 7 feet, rated at 1,900 lbs) using another 3/8” clevis.

safety straps labels

Safety Straps with Labels

Since a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, that means my entire system is rated for 1,900 lbs per side, as limited by the chain. I don’t know about you, but it’ll be a while before I squat 3,800 lbs! And the price isn’t too bad at $110, total. If I was willing to settle for yellow straps, I could have knocked the price down to $90.


Strap Adjusted for Rack Pulls, Squats and Bench Press

Strap Adjusted for Rack Pulls, Squats and Bench Press

I replaced all of the clevis cotter pins with hair pin clips for easier adjustment. And because I’m crafty like that, I added paracord lanyards to the clevis that will adjust the strap position for rack pulls, bench pressing or squatting. The lanyards make the clips easier to see and easier to remove.

hair pin clip lanyard

Hair Pin Clip with Lanyard

In closing, I prefer straps as the primary safety method, but I recommend setting the pin or pin & pipe safeties as a redundant back-up, just in case. In the end, can you really put a price on the life or limb you risk in the gym?


The whole is greater than the sum of the parts.

The Elements of a basic gym: barbell, plates, platform, rack, bench and chin up bar. A basic plan built on solid Principles: Adaptation by way of compound movements, an emphasis on building and maintaining strength with proper loading and rep ranges.

Garage Gym

Garage Gym Elements

It’s not complicated – and it doesn’t need to be. It’s just exercise.

In the last few posts I’ve given you the tools to select a solid program that fits your fitness goal. I’m going to take it one step further and flat-out hand you a few programs that have brought me great results, or that come strongly recommended by trusted sources.

Based on the Principles we covered, a good program will do two things. First, it will align with your training goals, and second, it will fall in line with the principles of adaptation from an anatomy/physiology perspective.

That means, if you’re a powerlifter, your program better make you stronger in the squat, bench and deadlift. If you’re a triathlete, the program needs to make you a faster swimmer, bicyclist and runner. If you’re a football player, your program needs to make you a better football player. Whatever your sport, your training program is a good one when it results in your improvement at your sport.

The second part is just as crucial – the program needs to fall in line with the general rules of anatomy and physiology. It must provide adequate stimulus for the desired response. It must provide adequate rest and recovery for consistent adaptation. And it must be safe for you, the trainee.

A program that doesn’t sufficiently challenge you, doesn’t allow you to rest enough, or puts you at risk of injury or overtraining is a bad program. Choose wisely!

If you are relatively new to the Iron Game, then it is my sincerest opinion that you should begin with a Linear Progression. You don’t have to stay there, but you need to start there. As your training age matures, you can move on to more complicated programs, but for the “young”, there’s no better place to start.

Starting Strength, Madcow/Bill Starr, Stronglifts, and Greyskull LP are all good choices here. I went with CrossFit Football’s Amateur program (also an LP), and was very happy with the results.

I have since moved on to CrossFit Football’s Collegiate program. This program utilizes a mix of rep max work with some percentage-based work. Jim Wendler’s 5/3/1 and Justin Lascek’s Texas Method Part 1 use similar percentage tools, and work well for intermediates. While the Texas Method is suited mainly to brute strength/powerlifting, Jim Wendler has spun off a number of variations to his 5/3/1 program to suit the needs of everyone from powerlifters to football players to CrossFitters.

Speaking of CrossFit, if you fancy yourself the next winner of the World Series of Exercise, Rudy Nielsen has a selection of programs to choose from, based on your level of experience and/or your area of weakness.

If you’re more inclined toward Olympic Lifting, Catalyst Athletics publishes both a beginner program and a running daily program.

For the fitness generalist who is interested in exercise simply for a healthy and fit lifestyle, Everyday Paleo Lifestyle and Fitness also runs a program. For Tactical Athletes (Military, Law Enforcement and First Responders), Military Athlete publishes a variety of programs for both Fitness Test preparation, and active duty applications.

Like we discussed last time, there are plenty of methods out there – these a just a few that I’ve had close contact with, and which fall in line with the Principles we discussed. What programs have you had success with? How well did the goals of the program align with your training goals and how much do you think it contributed to your overall goals? Let us know in the comments or over on Facebook!


The five Elements posts I’ve written were created together and in the order they were presented for a reason: they represent the common core pieces of any/all solid training systems. Whether you are training for strength, size, speed or athleticism, your program will call for heavy, compound barbell movements and bodyweight/calisthenic movements. These five Elements will allow you to perform these core exercises, and establish a foundation from which your gym can grow to meet your specialized equipment needs. Additionally, they lay out a plan for building a garage or home gym literally from the ground up.

The Barbell

The barbell and weights are one of the most tried-and-true methods for building strength and athleticism. Countless athletes have utilized these tools to build strength and size. The ability to progressively and precisely load the barbell means that it can be used for a variety of movements and resistances. Squats, deadlifts, presses, cleans, jerks and snatches develop strength, size and speed, all with a single tool that can be used over the entire lifespan of an athlete.


The Iron is the great reference point, the all-knowing perspective giver. – Henry Rollins

The Platform

A platform is vital for a number of reasons. First and foremost, the platform will protect your floor from the impact of falling weights. Second, it provides a foundation to attach a rack or stands to.  It also helps to define your gym space, which is nice for those of us who have a tendency to sprawl.

Firm Foundation

Firm Foundation

The Rack/Stands

Put simply, it’s hard to Squat or Bench Press without a rack or at least stands. For a garage gym, I recommend a rack because it adds a margin of safety that only a highly-competent set of spotters could rival.

11 Guage Steel - Garage Gym Dog Approved!

Everybody chill – I got this!

The Pull Up Bar

Pull ups and chin ups are an important ingredient in training the upper body. Many racks include such a bar, but this post is for those that chose not to use a rack or who want an additional pull up bar outside the rack.

The Bench

While some recent fitness trends have tried to downplay how essential it is to bench press, it remains an important part of a solid strength-based program. A flat bench, therefore, must be part of the garage gym.

bench after

How Much Ya Bench?

With the items above, you’re free to begin pursuit of the training path of your choice: Powerlifting, Strongman, Strength & Conditioning for Sports Performance, Weightlifting, Bodybuilding, CrossFit, Military/Law Enforcement Fitness Tests, etc.

Post in the comments to let me know what training path you’re on, and what equipment you’d like to build for your garage gym!

Get Your Pull!

If you chose to go the route of squat stands, or if you just want an additional chin/pull up station, then this post is for you! After the basic barbell exercises, the pull up & chin up are some of the most effective exercises for training the upper body.

In the last post, I strongly advised against a do-it-yourself option for the sake of safety. Today’s subject is in a gray area. If you’re not confident in your building abilities, there are some good options available. Don’t be one of these! However, if you’re secure enough in your building abilities to build something from which to suspend yourself against the ever-present pull of gravity, here’s some commentary from my experience.

Foresight tells us that we want a bar that’s mounted firmly enough to hold our bodyweight and then some – weighted chin-ups, muscle ups, kipping pull-ups. The bar needs to be secure, not just vertically, but laterally as well. To accomplish this, you’ll need triangular bracing.

Looking at the options available from Rogue, Again Faster and Christian’s Fitness Factory, I devised a way to mimic their offerings with commonly-available hardware. While I did not actually build what I will describe below, I did verify that it’s possible, and calculated the associated price of materials.

Steel Tube Pull Up Bar

Perforated Square Steel Tubing for a Pull-Up Bar


Ceiling Mount

Hardware List:

-(4) pieces of 1”x4’ Perforated Square Steel Tube ($18.99 each)

-(2) 1.5” U-Bolts ($1.14 each)

-(2) 5/16”x3.5” Bolts with flat washers, lock washers and nuts

-(10) 5/16”x2.5” Bolts with flat washers, lock washers and nuts

-(1) 1”x48” Black Pipe ($11.24)

-(4) 5/16”x3” Lag Bolts with flat washers

Pull Up Bar

Ceiling Mounted Pull-Up Bar

Bolts, washers and nuts are typically sold by weight, and would only cost a few dollars for this project. Total cost is approximately $95 plus tax.

Begin by cutting one of the 1” square steel tubes into two 24” lengths. These will be the horizontal pieces (“beams”) that get mounted to the ceiling. Next, take another piece of steel and cut two 18” lengths. These will be the vertical pieces (“risers”) that drop down and mount directly to the bar. From the third and fourth pieces of steel, cut four 16” lengths. These will be the angle braces. From the remaining cut-offs, cut two 6” lengths. These will be the mending braces that attach the vertical pieces to the horizontal pieces.

With the pieces cut, it’s time to start assembling. Using the mending braces, attach a beam to a riser, using the hole just past center. Put a 2.5” bolt through the beam, into the mending brace, then add the flat washer, lock washer and nut. Hand tighten the nut. Put two 2.5” bolts through two of the holes near the top of the riser, then into mending brace, followed by flat washers, lock washers and nuts. Hand tighten the nuts.

Now we need to add the angle braces. Put a 2.5” bolt through the beam, at the second hole from the front. Put the bolt through first hole of the angle brace, then add the flat washer, lock washer and nut. Hand tighten.

Flip the entire assembly over. Put a 2.5” bolt through the first hole of a second angle brace, then through the last hole in the beam. Add the flat washer, lock washer and nut, and hand tighten.

The free ends of the angle braces should now be rotated into place, and the last hole of the angle braces should intersect with the riser at the 10th hole down from the beam. Push a 3.5” bolt through all three pieces. Add a flat washer, lock washer and the nut, and hand tighten.

With all the pieces in place, use wrenches to tighten all of the nuts. They should be tightened enough to fully compress the lock washers. This completes one side. Assembly of the opposite side is exactly the same.

Pull Up Bar One Side

Ceiling Mounted Pull-Up Bar – One Side

When both sides are finished, they can be mounted to the ceiling. You can use lag screws to mount the rig directly to ceiling joists, however, I would recommend placing 2×6’s screwed to multiple joists to further distribute the load. The rig is then bolted or lag screwed to the 2×6’s.

Install the U-Bolts onto the risers loosely. Insert the black pipe by sliding it into one of the u-bolts, then into the other. Tighten the u-bolts until the pipe is held firmly in place.


Wall Mount

Hardware List:

-(3) pieces of 1”x4’ Perforated Square Steel Tube ($18.99 each)

-(2) 1.5” U-Bolts ($1.14 each)

-(10) 5/16”x2.5” Bolts with flat washers, lock washers and nuts

-(1) 1”x48” Black Pipe ($11.24)

-(4) 5/16”x3” Lag Bolts with flat washers


Wall Mount Pull Up Bar

Wall Mounted Pull-Up Bar

Bolts, washers and nuts are typically sold by weight, and would only cost a few dollars for this project. Total cost is approximately $75 plus tax.

Begin by cutting two of the square steel tubes into four 18” lengths. Two of these lengths will be the risers (vertical pieces) that will attach to the wall; two of them will be the beams (horizontal pieces) that will hold the pull up bar. Cut the remaining 12” piece into two 6” pieces. These will be the mending braces that tie the risers to the beams. Cut the third steel tube piece into two 16” pieces, and set the remaining 16” piece to the side for some other DIY project.

With the pieces cut, it’s time to start assembling. Using the mending braces, attach a beam to a riser, using the fourth hole down from the top of riser. Place a 2.5” bolt through the fourth hole, then through the first hole of the mending brace. Add a flat washer, lock washer and nut, and hand tighten. Place a 2.5” bolt through the first and third holes in the beam, then put them through the second and fourth holes in the mending brace. Add flat washers, lock washers and nuts, and hand tighten.

Next, place a 2.5” bolt through the 11th hole in the beam, then through the first hole in the angle brace. Place a 2.5” bolt through the riser at the 11th hole down from the mending brace, and push it through the last hole of the angle brace. Add flat washers, lock washers and nuts, and hand tighten.

With all the pieces in place, use wrenches to tighten all of the nuts. They should be tightened enough to fully compress the lock washers. This completes one side. Assembly of the opposite side is exactly the same.

Wall Mount Pull Up Bar Side

Wall Mounted Pull Up Bar – One Side

When both sides are finished, they can be mounted to the wall. You can use lag screws to mount the rig directly to studs, however, I would recommend placing 2×6’s screwed to multiple studs to further distribute the load. The rig is then bolted or lag screwed to the 2×6’s.

Install the U-Bolts onto the beams loosely. Insert the black pipe by sliding it into one of the u-bolts, then into the other. Tighten the u-bolts until the pipe is held firmly in place.



Hardware List:

-(1) 1”x48” Black Pipe ($11.24)

-(2) Flanges for Black Pipe

-A few pieces of 2×4

-Triangular piece of ½” plywood

-Wood glue and Screws

-(8) Lag Screws

It’s been a while since I built this, and much of it was constructed using materials I already had. I’d estimate the total cost to be somewhere around $35.

There is a third option for an even lower price: wood. While it costs less, gaining the same strength and stability takes a bit more experience with woodworking, and is more labor-intensive with a lower margin for error.

I went back to my residential construction days for the pull up bar I put in my first garage gym, since it seemed to fit better with the construction of the garage.

For my first chin up bar, I started with a threaded piece of 1” diameter black pipe and two flanges. I added a length of 2×4 to an existing stud to make a double stud. The double stud provided a solid mount for the wall-end of the bar. The other side got a little more complicated.

The other end of the bar did not land directly below a roof truss (in a basement, the same may be true for a floor joist). I framed in a “floating” 2×4 beam utilizing cross members reinforced by hurricane clips.

With the beam now in place, we need to tackle a triangulated mount for the other end of the bar. I measured (to ensure that the bar would be level) a vertically-mounted 2×4 to drop from the beam to the end of the bar. To brace it, I added another 2×4 on an angle up to the beam. I then pieced it all together with a gusset of ½” plywood, glued and screwed to the 2×4’s.

Plywood Gusset

Plywood Gusset

Plywood Gusset

Plywood Gusset

To finish it up, I held the bar, with the flanges threaded on, in place so I could mark the screw holes. I then drilled pilot holes and mounted the bar using eight lag screws.


Hardware List

-(1) 1”x48” Black Pipe ($11.24)

-(1) 2-pack of Cinch Straps ($6.88)

-(2) U-Bolts ($2.28)

Total cost is $20.40.

Drill holes in the black pipe so that you can insert the two u-bolts, one on each end. Loop the cinch straps over a sturdy structure, then through the u-bolts. Adjust the straps to level the bar. Grab on, pull up!


So here you have four options, each a little different, and each with a different price tag. However, you’ll find that each is priced a little below the retail price of a pre-fabricated unit, and any of the do-it-yourself options come with the satisfaction of knowing you created it from the basic raw materials. It’s a very rewarding feeling!

As usual, post questions, feedback or suggestions to the comments! Come back soon to learn how to refurbish a bench!

Nice Rack!

In our last post, we put together the lifting platform. In addition to protecting the floor, the platform also helps to define our workout space. As you’ll see below, the platform also becomes a functional element for securing the rack or squat stands.

I know this is a DIY blog, but lifting weights comes with some risks and we have to factor in personal safety. While some DIY racks or stands might be ok, it has been my experience that there is no substitute for a quality squat rack. I, therefore, recommend that you find the right rack or stands to suit your budget, space and training goals.

When I first started, I was focused on my budget. My strength was not at a level where I was terribly concerned about a failed bench press or squat, and so I opted for the Powerline PS60X squat stands. They had a footprint that matched my training space, and were rated up to 300 lbs. – in excess of my maximal strength at the time.

Other, more substantial squat stands are available, and if that’s the right piece of equipment for you, then the more substantial options would be my recommendation. For those of you interested in Olympic Weightlifting, Catalyst Athletics makes use of the Werksan Portable Squat Stand.

Fast forward through a few months of CFFB’s aggressive Amateur program, and I was starting to become concerned about the weights I was squatting and pressing under. Since I did most of my lifting alone, without a spotter, I knew I needed to compensate.

Still working with a tight budget, I crafted, using common lumber and steel pipe from the hardware store, some spotter bars which attached to the squat stands.

Squat Stands with DIY Spotter Bars

Squat Stands with DIY Spotter Bars

Fast forward a few more months (and several PRs in the major lifts) and I faced another conundrum. Garage Gym Girl and I needed to move in order for her to pursue a new job. The new space was a similar size, but could not have a suitable space for the pull up bar. And, given the effectiveness of the CFFB program, I needed a safer place to squat and bench press.

By now, the iron bug had bitten and I knew that this was a hobby that was not soon to be given up. It all added up to one simple solution: a power rack. I weighed my options (and there are many – Rogue, Elite FTS, etc) and chose a Rogue R3 Bolt-Together.

squat rack

Rogue R3 Bolt Together

When choosing a rack, consider the availability of both replacement parts and ad-on accessories (dip bars, alternate pull/chin up bars, etc.). I chose the bolt together option to make it easier to dismantle and move, in addition the wide variety of extras available from Rogue.

Regardless of your particular choice of rack or stands, we’ll need to tie it back in to the platform. The Rogue rack came with feet, pre-drilled for just this purpose. With the rack assembled and in position on the platform, I marked and drilled holes to bolt the rack to the platform. I then removed the rack from the platform, and disassembled the plywood in order to get carriage bolts installed. The use of carriage bolts is primarily for the flat, rounded head which will not elevate the platform, but will still provide a firm connection. I put the bolts, heads-down, up through the holes in the bottom layer of the platform. I then re-assembled the platform by lining up the remaining holes with the shafts of the bolts. Finally, I placed the rack back over the top, added flat washers and tightened the nuts onto the bolts.

Carriage Bolt in Rack Foot

Carriage Bolt in Rack Foot

The squat stands did not have feet, and were therefore a little trickier. In that case I purchased some U-bolt plates from the hardware store, along with eight carriage bolts. I placed the stands in position on the platform. I then marked and drilled holes in line with the U-bolt plates. I removed the stands and disassembled the plywood in order to get carriage bolts installed. I put the bolts, heads-down, up through the holes in the bottom layer of the platform. I then re-assembled the platform by lining up the remaining holes with the shafts of the bolts. Finally, I placed the stands back over the top, added flat washers and tightened the nuts onto the bolts.

Squat Stands Bolted to the Platform

Squat Stands Bolted to the Platform

Evaluate your current strength level and training goals; consider your budget and the space you have for training. Do your research, and find a rack or stands that work for you.

11 Guage Steel - Garage Gym Dog Approved!

11 Guage Steel – Garage Gym Dog Approved!

Come back for future posts where we’ll discuss refurbishing a flat bench and how to install chin up bars for those of you that go with stands instead of a rack.



Firm Foundation

My plan for these first several posts is to work from the ground up, literally. A functional gym for nearly any type of athletic training will have a common core of equipment, starting with the barbell. Once we have the core elements of the gym sorted out, we’ll get into more program/goal specific projects.

A sturdy structure of any sort needs a firm foundation, and your garage gym is no different. A decent platform will help distribute loads so that your concrete floor does not crumble or develop cracks.

Today I’m going to walk you through three platform options – a half platform that’s 4ft x 8ft, a full platform that’s 8ft x 8ft and a double platform that’s 8ft x 16ft for those of you lucky enough to have the space or need additional space for a Garage Gym Girl who lifts.

Half Platform (4’x8’) half platform

To build a “half platform”, purchase 2 ½ sheets of plywood. Keep in mind that plywood comes in a variety of thicknesses and types of wood, each with its own relative price. I went with a fairly budget option of Oriented Strand Board (OSB) in ½” thickness. Half sheets are typically available from the big box retailers, or if they’re not directly available, most will cut a piece to size for you. You will also need a sheet of rubber stall mat, preferably in the same thickness as the plywood. Stall mats can be purchased in some hardware stores, and nearly any farm supply store, such as Tractor Supply Co.

Lay down the first sheet, then the second directly over that. Center the half sheet on top of the second sheet. Cut the rubber stall mat into two strips, 2’ x 4’. I have had good experiences using a utility knife with a sharp blade and some sort of straight-edge (a ruler, level or piece of lumber). Cut the mat in several shallow passes rather than attempting to saw all the way through on the first pass.

half platform layers

When the pieces are all oriented properly, screw them together using 1 ¼” wood screws. I like to screw the corners of each piece in the top layer, as well as a few additional screws in the middle of each span. Keeping the layers tight will maximize the platform’s ability to disperse loads and impact. If you plan to add a rack or squat stands (which I will cover in a future post), you may want to wait before screwing all the pieces together.

Full Platform (8’x8’)

full platform perspective

As above, choose your plywood option, but in this case, you’ll need 5 sheets. Begin by laying the first two sheets down, parallel to each other, sharing a long side. They should be oriented such that the long edge runs in the same direction as you would be facing if you were performing a squat. The next two sheets will also be laid down parallel to one another, sharing the long edge, but this layer should be turned 90 degrees to the first layer. The final sheet is laid on the top, oriented the same as the bottom layer, but centered on the platform.

Cut the stall mats to 2’ widths, and enough pieces to fill in 8’ on either side of the top sheet of plywood.

full platform layers

When the pieces are all oriented properly, screw them together as described above. Again, if you plan to add a rack or squat stands, you may want to wait before screwing all the pieces together.

Double Platform (8’x16’)

double platform perspective

This one gets a little more complicated. We’ll need 10 sheets of plywood and enough rubber matting to cover 2’ wide by 16’ long twice. We start by laying out four sheets of plywood – each pair sharing the long edge of the plywood, and the two pairs sharing the short edge of the plywood. The second layer begins with one sheet perpendicular to the lower/base layer sheets, and centered over where the short ends of the middle four sheets meet. Add another sheet on either side of that centered sheet, sharing the long edges.

The final portion of the second layer is accomplished by ripping (cutting the long way) one sheet of plywood, resulting in two 2’x8’ pieces. These two pieces complete the outside edges of the second layer.

The top layer uses the remaining two sheets of plywood. They are set end-to-end and run the length of the platform in the center. The outside edges are then filled in with the rubber matting.

double platform layers

When the pieces are all oriented properly, screw them together as described above. Again, if you plan to add a rack or squat stands, you may want to wait before screwing all the pieces together.

Evaluate your training space, determine which platform size works for you, and head to your local lumber yard. Good luck and happy building! Post questions or feedback in the comments.

Let’s Go to the Bar

As an introvert, I sometimes have trouble building rapport with people. A few years ago while talking about this, my manager shared the following ice-breaker:

“Hi, my name is Eric. Do you like to drink beer?”

“My name is Bob, and yeah, I like to drink beer.”

“Great, we can be friends!”

So, my new friends and fellow beer-drinkers, let’s go to the bar!

Loaded Barbell

Loaded and Ready!

For a beginner, nearly any Olympic bar and a set of plates will suffice. Inexpensive bars have limitations in the amount of weight they can hold and how well the collars spin, but these details are of little importance to the novice lifter.

Note: If you are a more advanced lifter, we’ll assume you are more familiar with the nuances of barbells and leave this article to the novices.

I’d like to discuss what I think will be the two most common types of barbell that a novice is likely to handle. The first is the Cap Barbell-type bar. This is the type of barbell typically found in a 300 lbs set, commonly available in most sporting goods stores. The second is an entry-level barbell offering from the more specialized equipment suppliers. In this case, I’ll use my Rogue Bar, since that’s what I have immediately available. Similar bars are available from Again Faster and Elite FTS, among others.


My Bars

I will walk you through the process of dismantling and re-assembling both of these bars, with the intent of achieving suitable functionality in a garage gym.

Let’s begin with the Cap barbell. This is one of the cheapest, and probably most common bars available at a low cost via Craigslist or your local sporting goods store. It is also the simplest. If they’re not loose already, loosen the Allen screw at the end of the bar with the appropriately sized wrench. It should come out along with a bushing. After those two parts are removed, the entire collar slides off the bar.

collar bushing bolt

Bushing and Bolt Removed

I used WD-40 and a shop towel to clean the bar, the screw and the bushing. I then used lubricating oil on the bar and the bushing prior to reassembly. In my case, the collar spins much better, but due to some wear and tear, it will never spin well enough for heavy Olympic weightlifting.

My primary bar now is the Rogue Bar. I bought this bar as a nice compromise of price and performance. I do not consider myself such an advanced lifter that I need to spend more than a few hundred dollars on a bar that is capable of far more than I would stand to throw at it.

The Rogue bar disassembles by way of a couple snap rings. The first snap ring releases the cover, thereby allowing access to the second snap ring. Removing the second snap ring allows the collar to slide toward the center of the bar. In doing so, the retention rings can be removed. With the retention rings out of the way, the entire collar can be removed.

collar snap rings retentions rings

Collar, Snap Rings and Retention Rings

Place a few drops of oil on the bar, and immediately replace the collar. Give it a few spins to distribute the oil. DO NOT USE GREASE to lubricate the collars. While it may be a better rust inhibitor, its higher viscosity does not allow the collars to spin as freely as a light oil will.

Time to load the bar! The vast majority of my weight plates came along with a bar in an early Craigslist purchase. The plates were all a little rusty, but it’s hardly worth the effort to clean them up, unless they’re completely oxidized. Expect to pay around half the retail price per pound when purchasing used iron.

I don’t get a lot of use out of them, but over the course of a few used gear purchases I’ve acquired a couple benches, a curl bar and some standard (1”) weights and bars. Keep or sell these extra items depending on how well the items suit your training goals and budget. Off-loading a couple unwanted items might be a nice way to pick up some cash for gear you’ll actually use.

With a bar and plates, you’re ready to start your garage gym! In the next few posts I’ll help you get your gym floor and some other gear set up.

…And in the meantime, cheers!