Firm Foundation

My plan for these first several posts is to work from the ground up, literally. A functional gym for nearly any type of athletic training will have a common core of equipment, starting with the barbell. Once we have the core elements of the gym sorted out, we’ll get into more program/goal specific projects.

A sturdy structure of any sort needs a firm foundation, and your garage gym is no different. A decent platform will help distribute loads so that your concrete floor does not crumble or develop cracks.

Today I’m going to walk you through three platform options – a half platform that’s 4ft x 8ft, a full platform that’s 8ft x 8ft and a double platform that’s 8ft x 16ft for those of you lucky enough to have the space or need additional space for a Garage Gym Girl who lifts.

Half Platform (4’x8’) half platform

To build a “half platform”, purchase 2 ½ sheets of plywood. Keep in mind that plywood comes in a variety of thicknesses and types of wood, each with its own relative price. I went with a fairly budget option of Oriented Strand Board (OSB) in ½” thickness. Half sheets are typically available from the big box retailers, or if they’re not directly available, most will cut a piece to size for you. You will also need a sheet of rubber stall mat, preferably in the same thickness as the plywood. Stall mats can be purchased in some hardware stores, and nearly any farm supply store, such as Tractor Supply Co.

Lay down the first sheet, then the second directly over that. Center the half sheet on top of the second sheet. Cut the rubber stall mat into two strips, 2’ x 4’. I have had good experiences using a utility knife with a sharp blade and some sort of straight-edge (a ruler, level or piece of lumber). Cut the mat in several shallow passes rather than attempting to saw all the way through on the first pass.

half platform layers

When the pieces are all oriented properly, screw them together using 1 ¼” wood screws. I like to screw the corners of each piece in the top layer, as well as a few additional screws in the middle of each span. Keeping the layers tight will maximize the platform’s ability to disperse loads and impact. If you plan to add a rack or squat stands (which I will cover in a future post), you may want to wait before screwing all the pieces together.

Full Platform (8’x8’)

full platform perspective

As above, choose your plywood option, but in this case, you’ll need 5 sheets. Begin by laying the first two sheets down, parallel to each other, sharing a long side. They should be oriented such that the long edge runs in the same direction as you would be facing if you were performing a squat. The next two sheets will also be laid down parallel to one another, sharing the long edge, but this layer should be turned 90 degrees to the first layer. The final sheet is laid on the top, oriented the same as the bottom layer, but centered on the platform.

Cut the stall mats to 2’ widths, and enough pieces to fill in 8’ on either side of the top sheet of plywood.

full platform layers

When the pieces are all oriented properly, screw them together as described above. Again, if you plan to add a rack or squat stands, you may want to wait before screwing all the pieces together.

Double Platform (8’x16’)

double platform perspective

This one gets a little more complicated. We’ll need 10 sheets of plywood and enough rubber matting to cover 2’ wide by 16’ long twice. We start by laying out four sheets of plywood – each pair sharing the long edge of the plywood, and the two pairs sharing the short edge of the plywood. The second layer begins with one sheet perpendicular to the lower/base layer sheets, and centered over where the short ends of the middle four sheets meet. Add another sheet on either side of that centered sheet, sharing the long edges.

The final portion of the second layer is accomplished by ripping (cutting the long way) one sheet of plywood, resulting in two 2’x8’ pieces. These two pieces complete the outside edges of the second layer.

The top layer uses the remaining two sheets of plywood. They are set end-to-end and run the length of the platform in the center. The outside edges are then filled in with the rubber matting.

double platform layers

When the pieces are all oriented properly, screw them together as described above. Again, if you plan to add a rack or squat stands, you may want to wait before screwing all the pieces together.

Evaluate your training space, determine which platform size works for you, and head to your local lumber yard. Good luck and happy building! Post questions or feedback in the comments.

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Let’s Go to the Bar

As an introvert, I sometimes have trouble building rapport with people. A few years ago while talking about this, my manager shared the following ice-breaker:

“Hi, my name is Eric. Do you like to drink beer?”

“My name is Bob, and yeah, I like to drink beer.”

“Great, we can be friends!”

So, my new friends and fellow beer-drinkers, let’s go to the bar!

Loaded Barbell

Loaded and Ready!

For a beginner, nearly any Olympic bar and a set of plates will suffice. Inexpensive bars have limitations in the amount of weight they can hold and how well the collars spin, but these details are of little importance to the novice lifter.

Note: If you are a more advanced lifter, we’ll assume you are more familiar with the nuances of barbells and leave this article to the novices.

I’d like to discuss what I think will be the two most common types of barbell that a novice is likely to handle. The first is the Cap Barbell-type bar. This is the type of barbell typically found in a 300 lbs set, commonly available in most sporting goods stores. The second is an entry-level barbell offering from the more specialized equipment suppliers. In this case, I’ll use my Rogue Bar, since that’s what I have immediately available. Similar bars are available from Again Faster and Elite FTS, among others.

barbells

My Bars

I will walk you through the process of dismantling and re-assembling both of these bars, with the intent of achieving suitable functionality in a garage gym.

Let’s begin with the Cap barbell. This is one of the cheapest, and probably most common bars available at a low cost via Craigslist or your local sporting goods store. It is also the simplest. If they’re not loose already, loosen the Allen screw at the end of the bar with the appropriately sized wrench. It should come out along with a bushing. After those two parts are removed, the entire collar slides off the bar.

collar bushing bolt

Bushing and Bolt Removed

I used WD-40 and a shop towel to clean the bar, the screw and the bushing. I then used lubricating oil on the bar and the bushing prior to reassembly. In my case, the collar spins much better, but due to some wear and tear, it will never spin well enough for heavy Olympic weightlifting.

My primary bar now is the Rogue Bar. I bought this bar as a nice compromise of price and performance. I do not consider myself such an advanced lifter that I need to spend more than a few hundred dollars on a bar that is capable of far more than I would stand to throw at it.

The Rogue bar disassembles by way of a couple snap rings. The first snap ring releases the cover, thereby allowing access to the second snap ring. Removing the second snap ring allows the collar to slide toward the center of the bar. In doing so, the retention rings can be removed. With the retention rings out of the way, the entire collar can be removed.

collar snap rings retentions rings

Collar, Snap Rings and Retention Rings

Place a few drops of oil on the bar, and immediately replace the collar. Give it a few spins to distribute the oil. DO NOT USE GREASE to lubricate the collars. While it may be a better rust inhibitor, its higher viscosity does not allow the collars to spin as freely as a light oil will.

Time to load the bar! The vast majority of my weight plates came along with a bar in an early Craigslist purchase. The plates were all a little rusty, but it’s hardly worth the effort to clean them up, unless they’re completely oxidized. Expect to pay around half the retail price per pound when purchasing used iron.

I don’t get a lot of use out of them, but over the course of a few used gear purchases I’ve acquired a couple benches, a curl bar and some standard (1”) weights and bars. Keep or sell these extra items depending on how well the items suit your training goals and budget. Off-loading a couple unwanted items might be a nice way to pick up some cash for gear you’ll actually use.

With a bar and plates, you’re ready to start your garage gym! In the next few posts I’ll help you get your gym floor and some other gear set up.

…And in the meantime, cheers!